![]() I then shave the other edge by running the board against the fence. ![]() I then shave one edge by pushing the board through the saw, as guided by the bar. The result is two dead flat and parallel board faces.įor the edges, I attach a steel bar (similar to a Shopsmith "miter bar") to the board, which runs in the T-slot in my Shopsmith saw table and provides a straight reference feature. This process is repeated until a desired thickness is reached or all the high spots are shaved off. On the first pass, the high spots are partially shaved down to produce a flat working surface, then the board is flipped and the other side is shaved. My sled will hold and cut the lumber without distorting it. If it goes in warped, it will come out warped. Why not jointer and planer? Because, aside from the cost of these tools (I do not own either), a jointer will have trouble handling 8 foot lumber, and a planer will distort warped and bent lumber while cutting. ![]() I wanted dead flat, dead straight and dead parallel material to work with. I wanted a way to process relatively cheap and readily available SPF builder's lumber into un-warped, un-bent and un-bowed pieces. I decided that I had had enough aggravation trying to make decent projects from construction-grade SPF lumber. I specifically designed my sled to process lumber. Most of these are used to create flat table tops from tree stumps or wood burl. Youtube has numerous videos of router sleds built by others. A router sled uses a router mounted to a sliding or rolling platform to shave a flat surface on a workpiece. I recently designed and fabbed a router sled.
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